Final structure almost there! - 29.12.2011

I decided to add another deconstructed blazer to my structure, in a neutral colour to compliment the exposed padding and fusing in the top part. I found the perfect jacket in a charity shop and took it apart in larger pieces to create the skirt. I draped these along the existing hem which resulted in a voluminous layered shape. I also continued to nip it in at the waist to exaggerate the hourglass shape.

I am really happy with this and decided to begin actually sewing it together with a combination of machine sewing and ALOT of hand sewing and tacking. A few minor details were tweaked to make full use of the different panels of fabric, for eg. I decided to raise the inside out pocket flaps which were just hanging to create an added dimension to the silhouette.

I think I may just add a contrasting panel in the centre front of the skirt to break it up and then add and it will be finished. I'm really happy with the sleek shape and curved lines and the contrast of the raw edges and exposed insides. Watch this space for finished images!!

Subconsciously inspired??

When working on my final structure a few of my peers mentioned that it reminded them of the silhouette of Alexander McQueen's reptile dress. (Which is a massive compliment!!)

I also think that because of the symmetry and flowing/interlinking lines it somehow is reminscent of a kaleidoscope pattern.

On a more understandable level inspiration from previous lesson's has also come back to find it's way in this piece. Junya Watanabe's deconstructed jacket is still very much in my mind whilst working on my final structure!

The beginnings of my final structure - 22.11.2011

For my final wearable structureI decided to combine both techniques learn't in the deconstructed blazer lesson and draping lesson as these were my favourite, and I feel I was most successful at them. I used my initial blazer which I further deconstructed by taking apart the sleeves and seperating the body panels in both the front and back. I wanted to create a tailored chair dress to start with but felt I needed another object to further investigate the technique........

I found this large paint bucket which I attached to the seat of the chair, and then proceeded to create my tailored chair dress. I knew I wanted to work symmetrically again in order to create something quite polished to counter act with the raw edges and inside out elements of the deconstructed blazer.

Once I had got this far with my tailored chair dress I was happy with some of the detailing and shapes created. I then took it off the chair and began to drape it on the stand to see where else I could take it.

I really liked the shaping on the shoulder and the back. My initial plan was to create windows which I could then drape a contrasting and much more delicate fabric to create juxtaposition. But after consulting with my tutor, we agreed that it would be too contrived and I just needed to continue to work with the deconstructed blazer and let it organically take shape. I manipulated the neckline and bust area to create some interesting curves which I decided to stick with.

I then continued to drape and pin the rest of the structure with complimentary curved shapes and lines through the waist and the hem. This is the half finished product which I'm really happy with.

 I just need to think about how to add to it successfully in next week's lesson!!

Masters of Draping!

I really enjoyed the draping lesson, and since I had not done much of it before was really impressed with what I developed. I am a huge fan of the pioneer of draping Madame Gres..........

As well as the Grecian inspired jersey pieces I love her more structured work using stiffer wovens.

A lot of modern designers now use draping in different ways but one of my favourite labels who does is Lanvin. I think the use of draping lots of different textured/weight fabrics creates classic and elegant shapes in an innovative and new way.

Draping on the Stand - Lesson 1 - 15.11.11

Today we created calico bodices directly on the stand as a foundation to then drape onto. The basic bodice comprises of a front piece and a back piece with darts coming from the waist and from the shoulder.

Taking inspiration from an earlier piece I did during the deconstruct lesson.............

I tried to recreate the lines and shapes into a fitted bustier............

I liked it but as commented on by a tutor, and I agree, it is a bit twee and has been done before. I started to work on a much larger scale to create something fresher and more innovative..........

Idea 1

Idea 2

Idea 3

I really like my last development and feel I can interpret this into a wearable garment quite easily.

Once you have draped and pinned your shape, it has to be marked at every single point so that when you take it off of the stand you can trace off a pattern with all BP and folds.

I think I will use my last idea to construct a garment in crisp white shirting.

Innovation with pleating!

There is some amazing modern fashion design using pleats on a large scale, in particular I found these interesting............... Australian label Neo Dia:

And Middlesex University graduate Kirstie Maclaren, whose pieces can fold up and then be stretched out to create structure.............

Hand pleating in Practice - Part 2 - 8.11.11

We were challenged to create our own pleating patterns from scratch. Starting with a basic 3cm wide knife pleat......

I then reduced each alternate pleat to include 3 x 1cm pleats to create something more interesting............

The Zig zag pleat was one of my favourites, I think it's not too compliacted yet still effective................

In order to recreate it I spread the pleated fabric flat to see how each line was spaced...........

My own patterns, in really small and then larger scale.

Each pattern required two exact copies so that you can sandwich the fabric in between and steam to maintain the shape.

Here are my finished pleated pieces using various different fabrics. I like the pleats on prints as they are visually subtle.